Martin PatricelIi   who has been installing tile in Seattle for years gave me a few tips on sealing sandstone for both exterior and interior applications. To his knowledge sandstone actually needs to be pre-sealed—laid out before installation and sealed so as not to be affected by setting materials and grease from handling—and sealed after installation. 

Patricelli also warned, some sealers do not do well with UV light, but he believes Aqua Mix Sealer’s Choice/Sealer’s Choice Gold and Mira Seal’s Porous Plus are sealants that can withstand the UV rays in an exterior application.

 Just a Tile Chic tip

When choosing a sealer make sure the brand you have chosen is formulated to provide maximum stain protection for stone products. Most of the time these sealers will be a little more expensive, however, this is one of the few cases when it is worth spending a little bit more. Sometimes the less expensive sealers are watered down which doesn’t help you at all.

Now you have your sealer; check. You put on your first coat, let it dry 24 hours, then repeated the process all over again; check. Now you have nothing to worry about, and you live happily ever after. Not so fast! This is often a misconception. Actually, if you want your stone to stay looking its best, depending upon the stone, you should reseal once to twice a year. It’s not hard and requires just the same process you did the first time except one coat should do it.

See? Sealing is not scary, it’s just necessary to keep your stone just as beatuiful as the day it was installed. Stayed tuned for more helpful stone care tips.

Limestone is a very common sedimentary rock composed mostly of the mineral calcite, (lime). Limestone is formed over many years of reef bed build-up, making most limestone found in areas where prehistoric oceans or seas once were. Since reefs often build upon the skeletal debris of former reef inhabitants, organisms themselves leave fossils in the rock and entire communities–even entire reef structures–can be preserved in limestone beds. It is this buildup of fossilized organisms that gives limestone tiles and slabs their distinctive fossil-filled character.

Although limestone is used a great deal both architecturally and in design it is not quite as strong as sandstone, marble or granite and is easily weathered by acidic conditions.  Not only acidic exterior conditions, but interior elements can and will have a major effect on how long your limestone lasts. Although you will often see limestone in older buildings throughout the world, this limestone flooring is normally chalky and porous; these are typical characteristics ofmost French and Spanish limestones

My countertop is the very light-colored Honed Fossil Azul limestone, which is beautiful, but I can not stress enough how insanely porous it is. However, there are some limestones that are darker, more dense and less porous; St. Marc, Honed Empire Brown and St. Marie. 

Now don’t get me wrong.  I’m not saying you shouldn’t choose limestone, I am just saying you should make sure you know what you are getting into and be aware that you need to help it age gracefully. Graceful ageing of limestone can be achieved by initial sealing, routine cleaning and continual by-yearly sealing (especially in wet areas), wiping up spills immediately and not cutting or letting highly acidic vegetables or fruits sit on the counter for long periods of time.

 Here are some Do’s and Don’ts when considering limestone.

DO: clean up spills immediately to minimize damage to your stone. Use trivets or mats under hot dishes and cookware. Use place mats under china, ceramics, silver and other objects that can scratch the stone’s surface. Use coasters under glasses, especially if they contain alcohol or citrus juices. Clean surfaces regularly with a product that has a low PH, I also recommend one with a sealer in it. Use a tray for toiletry products in the bathroom to protect the surface from the damaging chemicals in many toiletry products.

DON’T: Wait to clean up spills on stone. Use cleaners that contain acid such as bathroom cleaners, grout cleaners or tub cleaners. Use vinegar, bleach, ammonia or other general-purpose cleaners. Use abrasive cleaners such as dry cleansers or soft cleansers. Use alkaline cleaners not specifically formulated for stone. Use scouring powders and abrasives because they will scratch the surface. Use toiletry products directly on the countertop surface.

See, now that you know, limestone is not scary.  It is just a delicate creation and requires a little extra love and devotion. Remember if you love limestone, your limestone will love you back.

So, what’s the difference?  Most often when we use the descriptors, gauged, semi-gauged, or un-gauged tile we’re referring to slate tile. Most of our slate falls into the category of semi-gauged which means that it has undergone a grinding process that levels out one side of the tile creating a relatively flat surface. Once installed, semi-gauged tile creates a smoother, more level floor because the thickness of each tile is fairly consistent.

Ungauged tile, on the other hand, is much less refined and varies greatly in depth from tile to tile. By definition, ungauged tile is textured on both sides and has not been machine-altered in any way. It is often hand-split and boxed right at the quarry which means a greatly reduced price for the buyer. So, if you’re flexible with the look and feel of your tile, ungauged slate will save you 50-100% of the cost of it’s gauged counterpart. Although a bit raw in look at feel, unguaged stone offers greater design possiblities during installation because either side can be installed face-up depending on the amount of color variation you desire.  Installers should note that unguaged tile generally requires more work to install.

If you want a smooth finish, you’re in the market for gauged tile. When tile is gauged it has been honed on one side creating a surface that has a consistent texture and thickness. Because the manufacturing process requires more effort, gauged tile almost always comes with a higher price tag.

So, there’s your tile lesson for the week. You’re choice between gauged, semi-gauged and ungauged tile will depend on your budget and the design aesthetic you’re looking for. Ciao!

Here at Statements, we have two metal tile lines that are 100 percent metal: Alumillenium and Anticati. Alumillenium comes in a variety of metal types and finishes. The color that tends to patina most obviously is the Alumillenium antique bronze which ranges in color from a warm bronzy-brown to a deep green after years of oxidation.  If you like the warm tones of the “pre-patinaed” antique bronze there are ways to encourage it to remain true to it’s original color.  Adding a layer of paste wax or lacquer to a well cleaned metal tile will protect and seal it from oxidation and discoloration.

Paste wax is a natural product that is most often used to protect and add luster to hardwoods. It is a less permanent, malleable protectant that adds a subtle sheen to the metals surface. The protective quality of paste wax can be compromised by heat, acidic liquids and/or sharp objects that might scratch the waxes surface. Paste wax can easily be reapplied when necessary.

Lacquer is a resin-based varnish that will seal surfaces in a more permanent way. The solvents in the liquid lacquer evaporate leaving a hard sealant that is available in a variety of finishes from matte to high gloss. One thing to be aware of when considering the use of a lacquer sealant for your metal tile: it’s VOC (volatile organic compound) content. If you’re concerned with potential off-gassing in your home or workplace, check the manufacturer’s label and try to buy a VOC free lacquer! For more general information on VOC off-gassing, click here.

In either case, before you apply a protectant to your tile, clean it up. You can use any non-abrasive household cleaner for your metal tile. I recommend using a neutral-pH cleaner with a lot of hot water. If you have trouble removing years of oxidation, you can use a soft metal scouring pad to uncover some of the metals natural brilliance. Always use a test tile with your cleaner and/or scotch pad to see if you get the desired results before moving onto the rest of your tile. Once it’s cleaned up, apply your paste wax or lacquer depending on the level of permanence and/or look you’re wanting to achieve.

So you’ve just moved to the Northwest (welcome to Seattle!) and barbecue season is fast approaching. How are you going to cover that mound of dirt in your backyard that could so easily be a beautiful patio? Good question. Let’s talk about your possibilities.

With the variable weather here in Seattle, you have limited options for outdoor tile use–quartzite (natural stone) and porcelain tile. Here are a few excellent choices that you’ll find in our showroom:

Sahara Sands Quartzite: This quartzite is more dense than slate which makes it appropriate for outdoor use. Because of its dense, granular structure, Sahara Sands does not accept moisture in a way that will cause it to crack with extreme temperature changes.

Diamond Black Quartzite: Like Sahara Sands, Diamond Black quartzite’s dense make up makes it appropriate for outdoor use. This dark, graphite-colored quartzite has little to no color variation and sparkles with a mica fleck throughout.

Sites porcelain: With its chiseled edge and subtle veining, the Sites line has a traditional look and feel that mimics natural stone. Sites has a moderately textured surface which lends to its low slip resistance rating–another plus for outdoor use.

Natura porcelain: This new line by Italian manufacturer, Mirage, comes in five nature-inspired colors. The density of this porcelain tile makes it extremely durable and frost proof while its linear, textured surface gives it plenty of grip to guard against a slippery surface.

Zebrano porcelain: With a modern look and feel, this through-bodied, rectified porcelain creates a contemporary look both indoors and out. This tile has a subtle linear texture that guards against a slippage in our rainy climate.

Another common question that I am asked in our showroom is whether or not ceramic tile is suitable for countertop use. Here’s my answer: it depends. Really, it does!

More often than not, my answer to this question is no. Here’s why: There are two major characteristics of ceramic tile that typically deem it unsuitable for a countertop that will receive much wear and tear. First, ceramic tile is less dense than porcelain tile (and some natural stone as well) making it a less durable surface for activities like chopping and dicing, or the accidental dropping of kitchen utensils on top of. Secondly, ceramic tile often has a glazed surface (a handpainted or screenprinted matte or gloss finish) that can more easily be chipped, scratched or damaged in some way. Because the body of most ceramic tiles does not match the color of its glazed finish a chip or scratch creates an obvious aesthetic flaw. So, for heavy use surfaces like kitchen countertops or master bathroom vanities, I recommend using porcelain or natural stone.

There are some exceptions to my loose “rule”. Ceramic tile can be used on light-use countertops such as a powder room vanity or a kitchen desk. Our handcrafted line, Flying Tigress, is a great choice for light-use countertops as are Solid and Bloom. Check them out!

According to Richard Scott, owner of Status Handmade Ceramics here in Seattle (see previous post on Status), he does not recommend using crackle tile in the shower or any wet application. However, when questioned further, Richard (who has crackle tile in his shower–gasp!) conceded that home owners and designers can do as they please. They simply need to be aware that crackle tile, when exposed to water, can either cultivate bacteria in its tiny tile crevices or it can be stained by dark-colored liquids such as hair dye or color-enhanced shampoos.

So, if you’ve fallen in love with our Tiffany 3×6″ subway tile, Cristalli’s sunny Miele 5×5″, or the look and feel of Status’ Apple-colored enhanced crackle tile, don’t despair. Just remember these helpful hints (and know that you are taking a bit of a risk):  

In a wet application crackle tile needs to be well sealed. This can be done before or after installation but I suggest sealing the tile before and after installation to ensure that your grout color does not soak into the crazed lines and afterwards to seal your grout and to add another layer of protection against moisture damage. Unlike natural stone, once your ceramic crackle tile has been sealed, it should not need to be resealed often in order to protect it from water damage. Of course, we always recommend that you pay attention to the surface of your tile to ensure that the seal is holding.

Use a neutral pH, water-based, penetrating sealer to protect your crackle tile. Wipe the sealer onto the surface of your tile with a soft cloth using enough sealer to penetrate the surface. Wipe off any excess sealer so it does not pool on the surface and potentially change the look and feel of your tile. To find such sealers, stop by your local hardware store or, if you prefer online shopping, check out Aquamix and StonetechPro. Always follow the manufacturers instructions for use!

To follow up and expand on my first article, “Introducing, Natural Stone!”, this article will focus on the care and maintenance of natural stone–something which puts unecessary fear into the minds of many homeowners who value the beauty of natural stone but do not want to A) ruin it and B) spend long hours caring for it. For all of you busy bees out there, I understand! This article is for you.

Everyday customers come into the showroom looking for just the right tile for their home or commercial space. I see many furrowed brows and looks of caution when I mention natural stone as a great option for floors, walls, bathrooms and kitchens. Perhaps you heard about what happened to your cousin Mary’s marble countertop or your Uncle Larry’s travertine shower pan and made a pact with yourself to never buy natural stone. Before you right it off completely, let me dispell some myths about natural stone care and offer a brief education about how to keep your your stone looking swell for decades. Here you will find my suggestions for sealing, cleaning and regular maintenance of natural stone. Read on, and then decide whether it’s the right product for you.

Natural stone needs to be well-sealed upon installation. This is something that needs to be done at the time of installation and periodically thereafter depending upon the quality of sealer that you use. To test whether or not your natural stone is well-sealed, put a few drops of water on the surface of the stone and leave it alone for 10 minutes. If the water remains beaded on the surface, it’s in good shape; if it has soaked in, it’s time to reseal your stone.

Use a penetrating sealer to reseal your stone. Also called an impregnating sealer, this type of sealer penetrates the pores of your natural stone. Instead of sitting on top of the stones surface (called a topical sealer which we do not recommend) a penetrating sealer works its way into the stone so that other liquids will not settle there. To make this a bit more complex, there are many types of penetrating sealers, each with it’s specialty:

hydrophobic sealers repel water based liquids

oilphobic sealers repel both oil and water based liquids

microbial sealers discourage the growth of molds and bacteria in the pores of natural stone.

So now that you know what type of sealer to use, you need to know how often to seal your stone. Before I go any further, you should know that there isn’t a set formula for resealing natural stone. The need to reseal your stone depends on the quality of the sealer you have been using (use a high quality sealer such as Stonetech Heavy Duty sealer), the type of natural stone you have, the location of the stone in your home and how much it is used (and/or abused).

With this in mind, always buy a high quality stone sealer to seal your stone initially and then follow the manufacturer’s instructions after that! Some sealers will call for resealing once every year; others will claim to keep your stone sealed for 10 years or more. In any case, pay attention to the surface of your natural stone to make final decisions about whether it’s time to reseal it. If your stone is on a kitchen countertop and receives a lot of wear and tear, it will most likely need to be sealed more often than a countertop or backsplash in a powder room which see much less use. If your stone is in a wet application like a shower or steam room, it will also need more frequent resealing especially if it’s a more porous stone like limestone or travertine. As you can see, there are not any hard and fast rules when it comes to resealing natural stone. However, as you live with your stone, you’ll begin to understand how and when to care for it.

If the idea of resealing your natural stone once a year sounds daunting, there are stone cleaners that clean and seal at once, alleviating the need to put a distant date on the calendar and evacuate the house for a weekend. These products are a good option for those of you who would prefer to seal and clean as you go. Here at Statements, we use Stonetech Pro’s Revitalizer to do the job.

When it comes to cleaning your natural stone, remember to use a neutral-pH stone cleaner. Remember the pH-scale? Well, if you don’t, that’s okay. Just remember this: only buy high-quality stone cleaners with a neutrual pH (neither acidic or alkaline) because both acidic and alkaline liquids are liable to etch or discolor the surface of your natural stone. Many drugstore stone cleaners are acidic or alkaline, so read those labels and call the manufacturer to double check on the products pH rating. Once you’ve bought your cleaner, it’s best to use a very small amount of cleaner and lot’s of hot water. Because soap is made to attract dirt, you do not want to use much of it and you need to rinse off any left over soap fromthe surface of your stone once it’s been cleaned. This is true for cleaning any surface in your home.

For more in depth information about cleaning, sealing and restoration of natural stone I recommend these helpful sites:

https://www.stonetechpro.com/

http://www.marble-institute.com/

http://www.thetiledoctor.com/maintenance/cleaningstone.cfm

Lastly, much of this information has been gleaned from Statements stonecare expert and partner, Denise Frakes of Blue Sky Services. She and her husband Dallas have been in the stone care industry for over 20 years and specialize in cleaning, sealing and restoring damaged stone. For Denise’s helpful stone care tips, please read this: Blue Sky Services Stone Care information. If you’d like to contact Dallas or Denise directly, they can be reached at 253.927.2240 or 253.946-2056.